Petro Hansen Photography

The River that flOws thrOugh the heart of everything

Outside the airport building, it’s just another quiet day in Africa. Women are walking around with baskets of fruit on their heads. Village children are begging for empty soft drink bottles they want to peddle. People are carrying Shoprite bags. Baboons are sitting on the sidewalks, unhindered and undisturbed, picking fleas off each other, while people and wild animals are trampling the same rural trails.

The untameable Zambezi. A short seven-letter word hosting one of the wildest rivers on our planet. How would I have known that the forever-moving rhythm of a majestic river would forever leave its mark in my veins?

The Zambezi flows out of the forest of its birth in the North West of Zambia. On its epic journey towards the Indian ocean, the 4th longest river in Africa will run through 6 countries, flood across endless plains, and fuel the migration of 30 000 wildebeest. It will bring life to everything it touches. It will be stopped in its steps, losing momentum completely when reaching the Barotse Floodplains, and further down, right at the point where the Zambezi reaches its maximum power will plummet over a 100-meter cliff. It will pick up its pace again only to be shape-shifted and entirely blocked by the Kariba Dam, forcing its waters through its water turbines to generate hydroelectric power. The Zambezi’s flowing force after that is also harnessed at the Cahora Bassa Dam to finally discharge its life-giving waters eternally into the Indian Ocean at its delta in Mozambique.

The beauty of smiling African children when the raindrops start to fall on drought-stricken plains, the sight of the African fish eagle with its 2.4-meter wingspan and distinctive heee-ah, heeah heeah cry soaring over the waters of the Zambezi. Hippos wallowing in dark river pools and a brave herd of elephant bulls wrestling against the river current to reach the green vegetation on small nearby islands, undoubtedly showcasing the fact that I live on the most beautiful continent in the world.

A Visit to the Royal Livingstone Hotel started as a holiday and ended in a personal expedition that forced me to look at the African continent with different eyes. The Zambezi River meanders like a footpath through the dry African landscape from the plains window. Striking baobab trees are baking in the African sun like centuries-old monuments. Africa’s trees sure are picture postcards!

It is impossible to miss one of the world’s seven natural wonders from the air. The plane makes one last turn over Livingston International Airport before landing. Then, far below, I see the place where the mighty Zambezi disappears 1 717 meters wide over the abyss into a cloud of dense white mist. The shining spray up into the air makes a clear mark against the sky-blue heaven and accurately indicates one of the most beautiful natural scenes I have ever laid eyes on. The Victoria Falls.

Outside the airport building, it’s just another quiet day in Africa. Women are walking around with baskets of fruit on their heads. Village children are begging for empty soft drink bottles they want to peddle. People are carrying Shoprite bags. Baboons are sitting on the sidewalks, unhindered and undisturbed, picking fleas off each other, while people and wild animals are trampling the same rural trails.

“African time” gets its whole meaning in the pace and rhythm followed by the inhabitants of the city of Livingston, who are in no hurry to go anywhere. It seems that these people still know how to live fully in the hours between sunrise and sunset.

Although the tranquillity of the way of life greets me here, I am in a hurry, almost feverish with excitement, to get to the Falls. I’m like an explorer on my mission. I’m on a quest to seek and find something beautiful in Africa. Something that will reassure me that I am breathing on the most beautiful continent in the world.

Dr. David Livingston discovered the Victoria Falls in 1855. I’m sure I was looking in amazement at the Falls through this scientist and missionary explorer’s eyes: “It had never been seen before by European eyes, but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

Following the footpath down through the National Park on the way to the Falls, the noise of something that the locals refer to as the “smoke that thunders” gets closer. Before you, a third of a million cubic meters of water per minute cascade spectacularly down over 92 meters of rock walls. Its grandeur takes your breath away. You stand in amazement as this happens right before your eyes. It calls the unbeliever to faith. It dulls the shrill cries of hungry children in Africa. It banishes images of senseless bloodshed due to wars in the name of religion. It washes over the Aids and Ebola viruses that threaten countless lives on the continent.

In 1874, David Livingston’s body was laid to rest in Westminster Abbey, England.

However, his faithful followers buried his heart at the foot of a tree in African soil. I now know why. The Victoria Falls swallows your heart as it thunders down on the beauty of Africa.

Like many great rivers, its beginnings are humble, and its destiny is by no means certain. And while a mighty river in Africa reminds me again why I want to play a part in the conservation of a continent, it also teaches me about the business of life. How to get started, fall down and ultimately rise above to dig deep down at your human spirit to succeed in your life story.